Question:
I’m thinking about purchasing a new rifle. Browning A-Bolt, left handed. I already have a Ruger M77 30-06 that I’ve had since youth, but it kicks, and then I flinch. After years of putting up with it, it’s time to change. I’ve decided to sacrifice some foot pounds at 200 yards for lighter recoil. Is anyone aware of a set of tables that shows the recoil of various calibers with standard factory loads? I know this will vary somewhat given the gun, the load, etc…. but would like some general guidelines. I’m thinking .308 or .270, but would consider the .260 or .280, or 7×57. I know most people think I need to carry a Magnum to shoot Elk, but I’ve killed several with the 30-06 using either 165g or 180g bullets with no problems. I’ll be using it for elk and mule deer only, no varmits, pigs, or moose. Alan Visit the rec.hunting and rec.hunting.dogs FAQ Home Page at: http://sportsmansweb.com/hunting/
Response:
Alan, Here’s something else to consider. If you like the rifle that you have and it shoots well, first of all, change the recoil pad to a good Pachmayr or equivilant. Most factory recoil pads (for lack of a better term) suck. A good one will reduce felt recoil considerably. Then, have a muzzle brake installed on your existing barrel. Sure, it will increase the muzzle blast, but you wouldn’t believe the reduction in recoil. I have one on a .300 Win Mag and the felt recoil is less than my son’s 6.5×55 Swedish Mauser. It’s an option that’ll keep you shooting a rifle that you’re familiar with. — http://www.herefishyfishy.com The Official Website of the ROFBMP Northwoods Classic http://www.uglybass.com/rofbmp Visit the rec.hunting and rec.hunting.dogs FAQ Home Page at: http://sportsmansweb.com/hunting/
Response:
Can anyone recommend a good gunsmith in the Idaho Falls, Idaho area who can install a recoil pad and a muzzle brake? Alan Visit the rec.hunting and rec.hunting.dogs FAQ Home Page at: http://sportsmansweb.com/hunting/
Response:
Here’s a recoil table I found. http://www.chuckhawks.com/recoil_table.htm Good Luck! Bruce L. Nelson www.bucktrack.com – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’m thinking about purchasing a new rifle. Browning A-Bolt, left handed. I > already have a Ruger M77 30-06 that I’ve had since youth, but it kicks, and > then I flinch. After years of putting up with it, it’s time to change. > I’ve decided to sacrifice some foot pounds at 200 yards for lighter recoil. > Is anyone aware of a set of tables that shows the recoil of various calibers > with standard factory loads? I know this will vary somewhat given the gun, > the load, etc…. but would like some general guidelines. > I’m thinking .308 or .270, but would consider the .260 or .280, or 7×57. I > know most people think I need to carry a Magnum to shoot Elk, but I’ve > killed several with the 30-06 using either 165g or 180g bullets with no > problems. I’ll be using it for elk and mule deer only, no varmits, pigs, or > moose. > Alan > Visit the rec.hunting and rec.hunting.dogs FAQ Home Page at: > http://sportsmansweb.com/hunting/
Visit the rec.hunting and rec.hunting.dogs FAQ Home Page at: http://sportsmansweb.com/hunting/
Response:
Hey Alan, why not try going to a heavier stock. Increased weight in the stock can reduce the recoil a lot – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text —— Original Message —– Newsgroups: rec.hunting Sent: Friday, December 07, 2001 3:28 PM > I’m thinking about purchasing a new rifle. Browning A-Bolt, left handed. I > already have a Ruger M77 30-06 that I’ve had since youth, but it kicks, and > then I flinch. After years of putting up with it, it’s time to change. > I’ve decided to sacrifice some foot pounds at 200 yards for lighter recoil. > Is anyone aware of a set of tables that shows the recoil of various calibers > with standard factory loads? I know this will vary somewhat given the gun, > the load, etc…. but would like some general guidelines. > I’m thinking .308 or .270, but would consider the .260 or .280, or 7×57. I > know most people think I need to carry a Magnum to shoot Elk, but I’ve > killed several with the 30-06 using either 165g or 180g bullets with no > problems. I’ll be using it for elk and mule deer only, no varmits, pigs, or > moose. > Alan > Visit the rec.hunting and rec.hunting.dogs FAQ Home Page at: > http://sportsmansweb.com/hunting/ Visit the rec.hunting and rec.hunting.dogs FAQ Home Page at: http://sportsmansweb.com/hunting/
Response:
Here’s a recoil table I found. http://www.chuckhawks.com/recoil_table.htm Good Luck! Bruce L. Nelson www.bucktrack.com Visit the rec.hunting and rec.hunting.dogs FAQ Home Page at: http://sportsmansweb.com/hunting/
Response:
> I’ve decided to sacrifice some foot pounds at 200 yards for lighter > recoil. Is anyone aware of a set of tables that shows the recoil of > various calibers with standard factory loads?
http://www.accuratereloading.com/recoil.html Visit the rec.hunting and rec.hunting.dogs FAQ Home Page at: http://sportsmansweb.com/hunting/
Response:
> I’m thinking about purchasing a new rifle. Browning A-Bolt, left handed. I > already have a Ruger M77 30-06 that I’ve had since youth, but it kicks, and > then I flinch. After years of putting up with it, it’s time to change. > I’m thinking .308 or .270, but would consider the .260 or .280, or 7×57. I > know most people think I need to carry a Magnum to shoot Elk, but I’ve > killed several with the 30-06 using either 165g or 180g bullets with no > problems. I’ll be using it for elk and mule deer only, no varmits, pigs, or > moose. > Alan
To cut down on perceived recoil, you have 3 choices… heavier rifle, smaller caliber, better recoil pad/fit. Since your game of choice is Elk & mulies, smaller caliber is probably out. The caliber’s you mention would be good for deer but marginal, at best, for elk. A 308 & 270 are very similar to a 30-06 in recoil and ballistics. A heavier rifle/scope combination may not be a good idea for you; depends on how heavy your current rig is. That leaves you with recoil pad/fit. Fit is very important and can make a big difference on perceived recoil. Since you’ve had the rifle since youth, I’d guess that you need to look at the fit. You have changed over the years but the rifle hasn’t. I recently bought a M70 Winchester in 30-06. It suffered from accuracy problems and recoil from the bench was punishing. Changing ammo helped the accuracy problem, changing the stock to a Hogue OM tamed the recoil; it was a little heavier, fit me better and had a built in recoil pad. Of course, none of this should dissuade you from getting a new rifle. Everyone needs one once in a while and the Browning is a good one. Good Luck Roy D Sacramento Visit the rec.hunting and rec.hunting.dogs FAQ Home Page at: http://sportsmansweb.com/hunting/
Response:
Can anyone recommend a good gunsmith in Idaho Falls, Idaho who could install a recoil pad and a muzzle brake for me? Alan – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Alan, > Here’s something else to consider. If you like the rifle that you have and > it shoots well, first of all, change the recoil pad to a good Pachmayr or > equivilant. Most factory recoil pads (for lack of a better term) suck. A > good one will reduce felt recoil considerably. > Then, have a muzzle brake installed on your existing barrel. Sure, it will > increase the muzzle blast, but you wouldn’t believe the reduction in recoil. > I have one on a .300 Win Mag and the felt recoil is less than my son’s > 6.5×55 Swedish Mauser. > It’s an option that’ll keep you shooting a rifle that you’re familiar with. > — > http://www.herefishyfishy.com > The Official Website of the ROFBMP Northwoods Classic > http://www.uglybass.com/rofbmp > Visit the rec.hunting and rec.hunting.dogs FAQ Home Page at: > http://sportsmansweb.com/hunting/
Visit the rec.hunting and rec.hunting.dogs FAQ Home Page at: http://sportsmansweb.com/hunting/
Response:
I’ve never seen a recoil table. A recoil formula is usually used instead. After a search of my reference books failed to produce the formula (though I know I have it somewhere), I tried a search engine which took me the website below. http://www.steveellis.com/RcoilEng.xls (I checked out the formula and it’s good. We all owe this Steve Ellis is hearty thanks for making this tool available to everyone. I bookmarked his site.) First thing to do is to establish a benchmark estimate of the level of recoil you’ve been experiencing in your .06. If you shoot factory ammo and don’t know what to put in for powder, I’d say 55 grains is a decent estimate. Hopefully you know your muzzle velocity; if not try 2800 with the 165 grain and 2700 with the 180. My Ruger Model 77 weighs about 8.5 lbs. with a scope and strap. However, this is on a scale that weighs in half-pound increments, so it’s not exact. The Gun Trader’s Guide states that the bare rifle weighs about seven lbs. By comparison, I have a 24-inch barreled Winchester that weighs 9.5 lbs. on my scale and is described as weighing 7 and 3/4 lbs. in the book. I’m going into a lot of detail about the weight in part because I suspect this is part of your problem. The Ruger is a lighter than average gun, and if you play with the gun weight in the first column you can see proportional changes in recoil energy. In other words, the Ruger should have just about 10% more recoil than the Winchester simply because it’s 10% lighter. So part of your problem is the rifle itself. Obviously you could achieve some recoil reduction by removing your Ruger’s stock, drilling some holes and plugging them with lead, but I don’t recommend this. The modern trend is toward lighter rifles, and anyone who lives in elk country as you apparently do can appreciate that. Now that you’ve got a handy recoil formula worksheet, all you’ll need to play what-ifs until your eyes glaze over is a reloading manual with powder weights and velocities, plus a copy of Stoeger Publishing’s Gun Trader’s Guide (available at many Wal-Marts) which provides approximate weights for most makes and models of guns. Earlier someone suggested getting a Pachmayer recoil pad. These do work really well, and if most of your sufferering has been in the shoulder, that just might be the best answer. But recoil pads don’t reduce muzzle blast or cheekbone punishment. Personally, I hate muzzle breaks. They simply transfer the suffering from the shooter to the people near him, and I think they ruin the looks of a gun. I suspect that 10 or 20 years from now muzzle breaks will be thought of as one of those unfortunate trends which, like the polychoke on shotguns, ruined a lot of really nice guns. By the way, Gun Trader’s Guide gives the weight of a walnut-stocked Browning A-Bolt, non-magnum caliber, 22-inch barrel, as 7 and 1/2 lbs. I’m guessing a synthetic stock would be even lighter though I can’t say for sure as my issue is from 1994 and doesn’t list many synthetics. Visit the rec.hunting and rec.hunting.dogs FAQ Home Page at: http://sportsmansweb.com/hunting/
Response: