Category: Duck Hunting

Emergency Choke Tube Remover

Question:

Hand tightened choke tubes are a very bad idea. I coach skeet shooters and see about 150 different shotguns up close and personal every week. I have seen choke shot out of a 20 ga and imbed in cinderblock walls and the threads were useless.

>This might be obvious to some of you, but about a month ago I was duck >hunting and wanted to change a choke tube in a Weatherby semi-auto. >The choke tube was stuck and I couldn’t unscrew it with my finger. I >left my choke tube remover at home  (since I usually only use my >finger to tighten and lossen my chokes). There are almost no normal >hand tools that work getting a choke tube out. What finally worked was >a quarter. They fit right down into the barrel (12 gauge) and will >remove most choke tubes like Weatherby, Browning, Rem-Chokes, >Winchester and Mossberg that are groved and recess into the barrel. If >the choke tube is jammed, you can add leverage with pliers. Works >slick in a pinch! Bill. >Visit the rec.hunting and rec.hunting.dogs FAQ Home Page at: >        http://sportsmansweb.com/hunting/

Visit the rec.hunting and rec.hunting.dogs FAQ Home Page at:         http://sportsmansweb.com/hunting/

Response:

This might be obvious to some of you, but about a month ago I was duck hunting and wanted to change a choke tube in a Weatherby semi-auto. The choke tube was stuck and I couldn’t unscrew it with my finger. I left my choke tube remover at home  (since I usually only use my finger to tighten and lossen my chokes). There are almost no normal hand tools that work getting a choke tube out. What finally worked was a quarter. They fit right down into the barrel (12 gauge) and will remove most choke tubes like Weatherby, Browning, Rem-Chokes, Winchester and Mossberg that are groved and recess into the barrel. If the choke tube is jammed, you can add leverage with pliers. Works slick in a pinch! Bill. Visit the rec.hunting and rec.hunting.dogs FAQ Home Page at:         http://sportsmansweb.com/hunting/

Response:

Moonpie and DUCKS

Question:

Quote: I’m sure  that duck was saying "NannerNanner"  not "QuackQuack" :-) So were these, for sure. One guy duck, three ladies. (?) Quacking like there was no tomorrow. Saxon told me that the ducks up as high as Eagle would have been finished nesting by now, but their excitement makes me wonder. And *so* close — 5-6 feet — to shore! Dum dux! Jane Webb M&M Pie

Response:

> Quote: > Moonie > is not a real GSP, but mixed up with a Mnt. goat/sheep  in there > somewhere.. > Lies! All lies! > L&M are just jealous, but Taffy — ! I’d expect better from you, being a girl > and all.

Sorry Moonie, but I’ve SEEN you posed in Mnt. goat postions, and even *I* , the floppy eared one ,cannot conceive of how you do these positions without having Mtn. Goat in your lineage! MAN, I can’t do ANYTHING as high or as well, as Moonie! I’d LIKE to, but.. sigh.. Moon is my hero! To jump like that! Sigh!!! Taffy, the lil’ un….. (I’ll settle for cleaning clocks on the big-pointy eared  guys throats!) Gal’s got to do what a Gal has got to do!

Response:

Quote: ded duck wif da floppy head? Mymymy favorite!! At’s HIM! Muddy goes bitebitebite, so Mymom won’ letter play widdim. Oney ME. I’m 15 months old. You? Oh. Mistook. Am toona haf.  ’cause a my L bows. You gots bad L bows? Or Yourmom just wuxtry carefuls? we fight an fight wif our faces *sigh* Muddy won’ do dat. Get all nervy an kinda crabby. Mymom do dat — bite on my lippies. Ain’ suckerdaddies good? Woo. Soch a suckerdaddy I gots! Love, Moonpie

Response:

>Quote: >p.s. I think that your flying fart/bullfrog was an insect, but I can’t >be more specific than that (thoughts of a entomologist collegue). >Sphinx moth. I’ll just *bet* it’s a sphinx moth. >And Moony was in NO danger of catching the ducks. Lots ofpeople fishing, and >she was on lead. Wouldn’t have let her off, anyhow. If she *had* been loose, >howsomever….SOMEbdoy would have had duck for dinner! >Jane Webb >Mudpie and Moon (Fearless Huntress)

Bailey just saw his first duck too.  we were swimming and the duck was just out from shore about 20 ft.  He took off swimming after it and the duck swam for the middle of the lake, i let Bailey go a little ways (knowing he couldn’t catch it) and called him back when he got too far (He came no problem).  The thing is I swear the duck was teasing him  because it kept coming closer and closer to us,  Bailey would think "Ha got ya now"  and take off again, duck would swim away. same thing over and over ’till I finally got tired of it and tied him up.  The duck flew away and I untied Bailey, within 10 minutes the damn thing was back again and they kept it up ’till we left.  I’m sure  that duck was saying "NannerNanner"  not "QuackQuack" :-) Jean Fraser

Response:

Moonie, I luff dat bang-thing, too!! Yur fake duck Dokken?? Smells and feels like ded duck wif da floppy head? Mymymy favorite!! Mymom’s a dud chucker, too, but she’s got this big slingshot thingy she calls a winger. But mostly, she lets someone else hide way out yonder and chuck it frum there. AM I older’n you? I thought you wuz my more -ahem- expurreenced fren. I’m 15 months old. You? I do member bout yur springy back an how high you can jump – far, too! Mymom won’t let me jump atall no more ’cause a my L bows. But I can still swim circles around you!! Nanner, etc. Broke sister’s gettin better. She’s outa her sling, and wants to runrunrun but hasta stay inna box for another week an a haf. But mymom puts her inner lap and puts pillows all around and my suckerdaddy makes me stay on my back an we fight an fight wif our faces. Shore will be funfunfun aroun here when she’s not broke no more!!! SheBop

Response:

Quote: p.s. I think that your flying fart/bullfrog was an insect, but I can’t be more specific than that (thoughts of a entomologist collegue). Sphinx moth. I’ll just *bet* it’s a sphinx moth. And Moony was in NO danger of catching the ducks. Lots ofpeople fishing, and she was on lead. Wouldn’t have let her off, anyhow. If she *had* been loose, howsomever….SOMEbdoy would have had duck for dinner! Jane Webb Mudpie and Moon (Fearless Huntress)

Response:

> BTW, Sheeby — (neener yer own self) I went to the doctor today for my itchies. > Susprised ever’body inna doctor place by hoppin’ upon the counter. High as > Mymom’s chin! > Woop! Knock offa stuff. Big stuff, little stuff, went allover. > Ever’body *real* susprised! > Not wide counter — hadda hop down fast. Or else land in doctor computer. > Can YOU hop that high up, Miss Junior Hunter, huh?

We keep telling humans,and dogs, (behind the Pies’ backs) that that Moonie is not a real GSP, but mixed up with a Mnt. goat/sheep  in there somewhere.. Luke, Mojo and Taffy,  who has seen NO other GSP that can leap *up*, like Moonpie! Truly a miracle goat/dawggie! snicker…and neener- neener! :)

Response:

Quote: Moonie is not a real GSP, but mixed up with a Mnt. goat/sheep  in there somewhere.. Lies! All lies! L&M are just jealous, but Taffy — ! I’d expect better from you, being a girl and all. Love, Moonpie

Response:

BTW, Sheeby — (neener yer own self) I went to the doctor today for my itchies. Susprised ever’body inna doctor place by hoppin’ upon the counter. High as Mymom’s chin! Woop! Knock offa stuff. Big stuff, little stuff, went allover. Ever’body *real* susprised! Not wide counter — hadda hop down fast. Or else land in doctor computer. Can YOU hop that high up, Miss Junior Hunter, huh? Love, Moonpie

Response:

Hello Jane and pies… Just wanted to rain on your parade a bit…  Although I’m sure that you are being conscientious, keep in mind that many ducks are still nest tending around here, and females that have been sitting awhile (if they are incubating a second clutch) are very slow, and tend not to flush until the last minute, i.e. when the dog is right on top of them, and then they can’t get away in time. Mina flushed a duck down in Cortez, CO (where those nasty cop-killing fugitives started), and would have caught it if her recall wasn’t good (she was inches away from catching that poor, squawking duck). Otherwise, ducks should easily be able to get away from dogs, especially if they are on the water. Saxon p.s. I think that your flying fart/bullfrog was an insect, but I can’t be more specific than that (thoughts of a entomologist collegue). – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Moonpie met her first *real live* ducks this weekend. I think I don’t need to > worry about whether or not she can swim. She’d never see a lake before, either. > Ducks were about 5 feet from shore, and if I hadn’t been on the ball, I’d have > ended up waterskiing behind her. There were a great many fisherfolk around, and > she had to be on lead. > I told her they were birds, and she looked up in the air. I tried to > explain…..finally she accepted the fact that they were ducks. They were > making a lot of noise. Later, I said "duck" in conversation, and  Moon jumped > up and *stared* hard at my face. > When I went "quack, quack, quack," I thought she’d go crazy! > A second lake, the day afterwards, had no duck, but did have some weeds which > were pretty interesting. > Jane Webb > Moonpie (I could catch a duck!) and Mudpie (who wants one, anyhow?)

Response:

Quote:  Wanna know how I trained my mom so good? Dese dux awreddy INNA water. Doan hafta wait for ‘em to drop. Oney thing inna sky’s birds — dese was DUX! Oboyoboyoboy. Mymom says OK eyes bug out too. Both ears-flaps turn inside out. Mymom has bang-thing — fake birdy fall outta sky. Good. Fake duck too. Mymom can’t chuck it so fur. Smells good — like real DUX. But no bang. I DO like the bang-thing. Mudpie doesn’t like the bang-thing atall. And don’t you neener ME about Junior Huntering. I could do that — I could! Besides, how can you be junior — you’re older’n me! Love, Moonpie Pee Ess: Howza sister widda laig?

Response:

She can herd lots of goats! What we need is a lake….. Jane Webb Mudpie and Moopie

Response:

YO MOONIE!!! You GO girl! NOW you understand!! I’ve ben tellin ya’ll about dem ducks, me’ sha, goin on a YEAR now!! Beats the ever lovin’ CRAP outa stupid ole wartie-farties, hmmmmm??Yo mamma been terribule remist real bad to jus introduce you to ducks afta all dis time. Dem webbered foots come in handy, yea? Jus you mind you stay a fur peace away frum the reaaal big ‘uns what make donkey sounds. They’s MEAN!! Ducks gets me so wurked up my mom sez ya’ll can see the whites of my eyes all da way round when I seize ‘em. She hollers, "Danger, Will Robinson, Danger!" an hooks me up on tha leash. An sometimes they fall outa the sky, an *MY* mom sends me out to pick ‘em up for her. Wanna know how I trained my mom so good? SheBop, Junior Hunter (nanner, nanner nanner!!)

Response:

Moonpie met her first *real live* ducks this weekend. I think I don’t need to worry about whether or not she can swim. She’d never see a lake before, either. Ducks were about 5 feet from shore, and if I hadn’t been on the ball, I’d have ended up waterskiing behind her. There were a great many fisherfolk around, and she had to be on lead. I told her they were birds, and she looked up in the air. I tried to explain…..finally she accepted the fact that they were ducks. They were making a lot of noise. Later, I said "duck" in conversation, and  Moon jumped up and *stared* hard at my face. When I went "quack, quack, quack," I thought she’d go crazy! A second lake, the day afterwards, had no duck, but did have some weeds which were pretty interesting. Jane Webb Moonpie (I could catch a duck!) and Mudpie (who wants one, anyhow?)

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Moonpie met her first *real live* ducks this weekend. I think I don’t need to > worry about whether or not she can swim. She’d never see a lake before, either. > Ducks were about 5 feet from shore, and if I hadn’t been on the ball, I’d have > ended up waterskiing behind her. There were a great many fisherfolk around, and > she had to be on lead. > I told her they were birds, and she looked up in the air. I tried to > explain…..finally she accepted the fact that they were ducks. They were > making a lot of noise. Later, I said "duck" in conversation, and  Moon jumped > up and *stared* hard at my face. > When I went "quack, quack, quack," I thought she’d go crazy! > A second lake, the day afterwards, had no duck, but did have some weeds which > were pretty interesting. > Jane Webb > Moonpie (I could catch a duck!) and Mudpie (who wants one, anyhow?)

Chuckle.. I recently had one of the flower beds destroyed when either chuckars (sp?) or young pheasants entered the bed ,left of the sliding door. Wasn’t much left to identify.. The bed and the birds were destroyed..The doggie fence deterrant was a bust. Sounds like Moonie needs to go-a-duck hunting! After all, she can heard a goat! :) Terri

Response:

More on the camo furniture (you won't believe this!)

Question:

After the address got posted for the catalog with the camouflage couch, I immeadiately called and had them send me a copy of the catalog. Well, it came in the mail today.  And guess what?  My wife LOVES it.  She honestly wants to get it when we build our new house (hopefully later this year, maybe next)!  She says that it will go perfectly with the carpet we have picked out (dark green), will look great with the stone fireplace, the light oak wainscoating, and match the dead animals on the wall. She not only wants to get the couch, but a pair of the chairs and an ottoman! PS. This is the same woman that on the days I get up at 4:00 am to go duck hunting, she gets up at 3:30 and fixes my coffee and sets it on the headboard of the bed.  Occationally, she fixes breakfast on those mornings too. Do I have a great wife, or what!  Drool on, boys…..  ;-) + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +   Love is not a feeling one has within themself.   Love is a verb (an action) one performs towards another *by choice*.   from multiple sources (including I Corth 13 & "The 5 Love Languages")

Response:

Glad I could be of help!  Now do you want to talk to me about the window treatments???   :-) Ken – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > After the address got posted for the catalog with the camouflage couch, I > immeadiately called and had them send me a copy of the catalog. > Well, it came in the mail today.  And guess what?  My wife LOVES it.  She > honestly wants to get it when we build our new house (hopefully later this > year, maybe next)!  She says that it will go perfectly with the carpet we > have picked out (dark green), will look great with the stone fireplace, > the light oak wainscoating, and match the dead animals on the wall. > She not only wants to get the couch, but a pair of the chairs and an > ottoman! > PS. This is the same woman that on the days I get up at 4:00 am to go duck > hunting, she gets up at 3:30 and fixes my coffee and sets it on the > headboard of the bed.  Occationally, she fixes breakfast on those mornings > too. > Do I have a great wife, or what!  Drool on, boys…..  ;-) > + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + >   Love is not a feeling one has within themself. >   Love is a verb (an action) one performs towards another *by choice*. >   from multiple sources (including I Corth 13 & "The 5 Love Languages")

Visit the rec.hunting and rec.hunting.dogs FAQ Home Page at:         http://sportsmansweb.com/hunting/ To leave the Hunting listserv list, send a message with SIGNOFF HUNTING

Response:

> Chris, I missed the post on the camo furniture. I manage an upholstered > furniture factory here in New Braunfels and we have made some for ourselves > but never took the idea seriously. If there is a market for them we should > look in to it. I’d appreciate the name and address of the catalog to which you > refer.Thanks.

Sorry it took so long for me to get back with you on this.  I finally found the old post which had the address and phone number of the company with the catalog.  I’m reposting it since others have asked for it too. Let me know if your company starts making something like this (shoot, if you create a web page with pictures of it, I’ll let you post an ad on the rec.hunting and rec.hunting.dogs Usenet groups).  Here is the post: I saw this in the Bowhunter 1998 Gear Guide (p. 60).  The address and phone number of the company that sells this furniture is: Bassett, TML Associates, Inc. 180 N. Dean St., Suite 101, Dept. BH Spartanburg, SC  29302 (888) 866-5962 + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +   Love is not a feeling one has within themself.   Love is a verb (an action) one performs towards another *by choice*.   from multiple sources (including I Corth 13 & "The 5 Love Languages")

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Chris, I missed the post on the camo furniture. I manage an upholstered > furniture factory here in New Braunfels and we have made some for ourselves > but never took the idea seriously. If there is a market for them we should > look in to it. I’d appreciate the name and address of the catalog to which  you > refer.Thanks. > Sorry it took so long for me to get back with you on this.  I finally > found the old post which had the address and phone number of the company > with the catalog.  I’m reposting it since others have asked for it too. > Let me know if your company starts making something like this (shoot, if > you create a web page with pictures of it, I’ll let you post an ad on the > rec.hunting and rec.hunting.dogs Usenet groups).  Here is the post: > I saw this in the Bowhunter 1998 Gear Guide (p. 60).  The address and > phone number of the company that sells this furniture is: > Bassett, TML Associates, Inc. > 180 N. Dean St., Suite 101, Dept. BH > Spartanburg, SC  29302 > (888) 866-5962 >   Love is not a feeling one has within themself. >   Love is a verb (an action) one performs towards another *by choice*. >   from multiple sources (including I Corth 13 & "The 5 Love Languages")

Chris, Any furniture store that handles Basset, and there are a bunch, can order that furniture for you. L. B. Jones in Evansville, Indiana stocks the stuff. Of course Pat Coslett, the owner, is an avid hunter. Well, he doesn’t really hunt "avids", but does get after the ducks, geese and deer. <G> Woody Williams If you’re too busy to hunt, you’re too busy. Visit the rec.hunting and rec.hunting.dogs FAQ Home Page at:         http://sportsmansweb.com/hunting/ To leave the Hunting listserv list, send a message with SIGNOFF HUNTING

Response:

Advice on Mossberg 835 Ulti-Mag

Question:

Good choice for beginner. Not to pricey but well made. I have the camoflaged turkey gun plus rifled slug barrell with cantilevered scope mount. Don’t be awed by the 3 1/2" chambering. It shoots 2 3/4" ammo just fine. You’ve made a good choice Visit the rec.hunting and rec.hunting.dogs FAQ Home Page at:         http://sportsmansweb.com/hunting/ To leave the Hunting listserv list, send a message with SIGNOFF HUNTING

Response:

Hi, I’m new to hunting and looking to purchase a shotgun.  I’ve been looking around and the Mossberg 835 seems to look the best to me so far.  I was wondering if this is a good choice?  I plan to use the shotgun for goose hunting, duck hunting, and grouse hunting with the occasional deer hunt (I plan to get a combo gun).  Any advice would be greatly appreciated, many thanks in advance, Marc. P.S.  If anyone sells the 835 please drop me a line, looking to purchase it though mail-order :-) Visit the rec.hunting and rec.hunting.dogs FAQ Home Page at:         http://sportsmansweb.com/hunting/ To leave the Hunting listserv list, send a message with SIGNOFF HUNTING

Response:

>I’m new to hunting and looking to purchase a shotgun.  I’ve been looking >around and the Mossberg 835 seems to look the best to me so far.  I was >wondering if this is a good choice?  I plan to use the shotgun for goose >hunting, duck hunting, and grouse hunting with the occasional deer hunt >(I plan to get a combo gun).  Any advice would be greatly appreciated, >many thanks in advance,

     I’ve owned an 835 for several years and can highly recommend it. Squirrels, bunnies, quail, coyotes, turkey, deer—it is a solid all around performer at a good price.        I have cleanly taken two gobblers at 50+ yds. using 3 1/2 inch #4’s and the turkey choke.  For deer, I have a rifled slugster barrel and Propoint sight.  With 2 3/4 inch Remington Copper Solid Sabots (pricey, but an incredible slug), I am confident to 100 yds.  Also, one of the camo models is extremely practical.      I’ve heard from waterfowlers that it is a good choice (especially for geese).  The only two problems I know of are that it can be a heavy gun to walk with all day and that it can be easy to shortstroke the 3 1/2 shells in the heat of the moment.      Oh yeah, many (all?) of the new models come with the barrels factory ported! Great for the 3 1/2’s!!!  I recently saw a camoed, ported 835, with 2 chokes for $299.99 at K-Mart.  Such a deal! Good Luck and Good Hunting! Visit the rec.hunting and rec.hunting.dogs FAQ Home Page at:         http://sportsmansweb.com/hunting/ To leave the Hunting listserv list, send a message with SIGNOFF HUNTING

Response:

LL. Bean Cork Decoys

Question:

>I recently took a look at Bean decoys and they look wonderful although >they are costly i was looking for someone who might have hunted over >then or has any advice on other good cork decoys

Scott. I have had a couple dozen mallards now for about ten years. Unfortunately I got them right about the time my forays into the duck hunting areas fell off drastically. So… I have only used them a few times. I couldn’t honestly tell you  that they are dramatically better than Carry-Lites etc, as far as "fooling the ducks" is concerned, I just haven’t had enough opportunity to compare them with competing rigs. The main advantage to cork, is the more realistic way the decoy floats. I would assume that this would be more important in a diver or sea duck rig…where water can be expected to be rough… rather than in a puddler rig on small bodies of water. Maybe mallards are not the best species to test the value of cork on. Any way…I am confident that their appearance from the air is at least equal to that of any other commercial decoy…and their appearance from a blind is very satisfying. And of course, since the price from Bean’s has doubled since I bought mine…I am confident that I could probably "make" money on them if I was foolish enough to sell them. The Bean corks are the best "commercially produced" corks IMHO. As the old saying goes…."Always buy the best when you can…the bitter taste of poor quality lingers long after the sweet taste of low price is forgotten". I’d recommend them, and remember you can add to your inventory over time. joe Visit the rec.hunting and rec.hunting.dogs FAQ Home Page at:         http://sportsmansweb.com/hunting/ To leave the Hunting listserv list, send a message with SIGNOFF HUNTING

Response:

I recently took a look at Bean decoys and they look wonderful although they are costly i was looking for someone who might have hunted over then or has any advice on other good cork decoys Visit the rec.hunting and rec.hunting.dogs FAQ Home Page at:         http://sportsmansweb.com/hunting/ To leave the Hunting listserv list, send a message with SIGNOFF HUNTING

Response:

Paint for Duck Decoys?

Question:

Does anyone know of a suitable Mat (no Sheen) paint suitable for Decoy Paint. After many years of being tossed about my decoys were looking very tired so I repainted them for this years Victorian (Australian) Duck Season.  I used about the flattest paint I know of – Blackboard Paint as a base. About 60% Black, 30% Green Blackboard Paint plus 10% Ochre Flat Enamel gave about the perfect colour for an Australian Black Duck Decoy but out in the sun the sheen is much too much.  Any Ideas????

Response:

>Does anyone know of a suitable Mat (no Sheen) paint suitable for Decoy >Paint. >After many years of being tossed about my decoys were looking very >tired so I repainted them for this years Victorian (Australian) Duck >Season.  I used about the flattest paint I know of – Blackboard Paint >as a base. >About 60% Black, 30% Green Blackboard Paint plus 10% Ochre Flat Enamel >gave about the perfect colour for an Australian Black Duck Decoy but >out in the sun the sheen is much too much.  Any Ideas????

Herter’s (1 800 654-3825),…geezz….I know that # by heart, has paints that will work for you.  They can be bought as individual colors i.e. yellow for beak, green for head etc. or as kits i.e."Black duck kit". Both kits  and individual paints come with instructions, if you ask for them. Basically the kits provide enough paint to take care of 10-20 decoys… depending on size.  Hope this helps. Paul

Response:

> Does anyone know of a suitable Mat (no Sheen) paint suitable for Decoy > Paint. > After many years of being tossed about my decoys were looking very > tired so I repainted them for this years Victorian (Australian) Duck > Season.  I used about the flattest paint I know of – Blackboard Paint > as a base. > About 60% Black, 30% Green Blackboard Paint plus 10% Ochre Flat Enamel > gave about the perfect colour for an Australian Black Duck Decoy but > out in the sun the sheen is much too much.  Any Ideas????

Here’s what I do… I go down to the local discount home store and peruse the paint chip section.  I  have them mix up the colors I want in flat latex exterior house paint. I sometimes have to mix some of the colors to get exactly what I want.  I’m  certainly no artist but the blocks seem to work very well. A disadvantage is that the dekes must be painted every year, sometimes even  touched up during a particulary hard season, but hey, it’s all a part of the  madness of duck hunting. Here’s a secret tip for mallards.  Instead of just painting the heads a flat  green, try painting them flat black and while the paint is still wet sprinkle  some fine green glitter in the paint rubbing it in with your finger.  The  glitter is available at most craft stores and a little goes a long way.  I know  it sounds crazy but try it.  You’ll be amazed at the results. Good Hunting, Dave

Response:

Thanks for the responses.  Here is what I finally did: Got some Flat Black Enamel.  Flat Black paints are not created equal so I had to shop around and try a few to get the flattest available. Mix with brickies sand – about 50/50.  The bricklayers sand (used in brick mortar)  in this part of the world is a yellow-orange colour reminisent of the edge of a Black Duck feather.  It has to be the natural river bed type, crusher sand will have reflective grains. Keep it well mixed as it is applied.  This gives a very realistic base finish.  The paint still goes on black but when it is rubbed it reveals some of the sand colour. I then used a low sheen exterior acrylic for the markings.  Fashion colours are not found on Ducks so I mixed my own.  Varying amounts of Cream, Dark Orange, and Black genarated the colours that I wanted. Most of the ducks headed north for the northern floods this year leaving only a few in the region. Late on opening morning when the few remaining ducks were very wary they were giving the other hunters shiny Decoys wide berth, some would still pop in for a look at mine from time to time. There is still some scope for experimentation.  The sandy paint is hard to apply. Maybe a finer form of sand or talcum powder would work? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Does anyone know of a suitable Mat (no Sheen) paint suitable for Decoy >Paint. >After many years of being tossed about my decoys were looking very >tired so I repainted them for this years Victorian (Australian) Duck >Season.  I used about the flattest paint I know of – Blackboard Paint >as a base. >About 60% Black, 30% Green Blackboard Paint plus 10% Ochre Flat Enamel >gave about the perfect colour for an Australian Black Duck Decoy but >out in the sun the sheen is much too much.  Any Ideas????

Response:

Waterfowl I.D. book?

Question:

The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service in a joint effort with Southwest Natural Cultural Heritage Cooperation publishes a pocket identification guide called "DUCKS AT A DISTANCE", by Bob Hines.  I used one years ago to help in the field, and was presently surprised to discover it still available.  I picked one up at Horicon National Wildlife Refuge office of the USFWS for fifty cents, as recently as last year.  Every duck hunter IMHO should have and study such a guide.  To order copies contact: Southwest Natural Cultural Heritage Cooperation Drawer E Albuquerque, NM 87103 – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Looking for a good book, on waterfowl identification; for a friend, > who > just started duck hunting..and can’t tell the difference between a > teal > and a TWA jet…;) Just kidding! > Thanks for any help! > ..NAK > Don’t know where to find a book but try these websights. > Waterfowl I.D. : > http://www.npsc.nbs.gov/resource/tools/waterfwl/waterfwl.htm > Ducks at a distance: > http://www.npsc.nbs.gov/resource/tools/duckdist/duckdist.htm

Response:

> The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service in a joint effort with Southwest > Natural Cultural Heritage Cooperation publishes a pocket identification > guide called "DUCKS AT A DISTANCE", by Bob Hines.  I used one years ago > to help in the field, and was presently surprised to discover it still > available.  I picked one up at Horicon National Wildlife Refuge office > of the USFWS for fifty cents, as recently as last year.  Every duck > hunter IMHO should have and study such a guide.  To order copies > contact:

The Washington State Duck Hunters Assoc. are handing these pocket Id. guides out free at the Seattle Kingdom Sportsman show. Jim

Response:

You can also suggest "The Great Gallery of Ducks and Other Waterfowl" by Richard LeMaster, "The LeMaster method of Waterfowl Identification" again by Richard LeMaster,  "Ducks at A Distance" by the US Dept of the Interior. Also, You could get them a subscription to ‘Wildfowl’ magazine.  Or, get them a membership to your state waterfowl association.  That’s just a beginning step into the world of waterfowling.

Response:

A great book is "Ducks, Geese, and Swans of North America". I don’t remember the author, but it an excellent reference book. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service in a joint effort with Southwest > Natural Cultural Heritage Cooperation publishes a pocket identification > guide called "DUCKS AT A DISTANCE", by Bob Hines.  I used one years ago > to help in the field, and was presently surprised to discover it still > available.  I picked one up at Horicon National Wildlife Refuge office > of the USFWS for fifty cents, as recently as last year.  Every duck > hunter IMHO should have and study such a guide.  To order copies > contact: > Southwest Natural Cultural Heritage Cooperation > Drawer E > Albuquerque, NM 87103 > > Looking for a good book, on waterfowl identification; for a friend, > who > > just started duck hunting..and can’t tell the difference between a > teal > > and a TWA jet…;) Just kidding! > > Thanks for any help! > > ..NAK > Don’t know where to find a book but try these websights. > Waterfowl I.D. : > http://www.npsc.nbs.gov/resource/tools/waterfwl/waterfwl.htm > Ducks at a distance: > http://www.npsc.nbs.gov/resource/tools/duckdist/duckdist.htm

Response:

Looking for a good book, on waterfowl identification; for a friend, who just started duck hunting..and can’t tell the difference between a teal and a TWA jet…;) Just kidding! Thanks for any help! ..NAK

Response:

> Looking for a good book, on waterfowl identification; for a friend, who > just started duck hunting..and can’t tell the difference between a teal > and a TWA jet…;) Just kidding! > Thanks for any help! > ..NAK

"Ducks at a Distance," by Bob Hines for the USFWS and available through most state natural resources offices, is very good. It’s available on the web, too. Someone posted the address a while back. Also, Frank Bellrose’s "Ducks, Geese and Swans of North America" is very good. This book has feeding habits, color plates, migration chronology and, best of all, migration corridors. Very informative. I like looking at the migration routes during the off-season, planning the attack for next year. Tom Pink E.U.P. Duck Camp

Response:

> Looking for a good book, on waterfowl identification; for a friend, who > just started duck hunting..and can’t tell the difference between a teal > and a TWA jet…;) Just kidding! > Thanks for any help! > ..NAK

Frank Belrose has a good book out.  It is: "Ducks Geese and Swans of North America."   The book is well illustrated and shows the birds in various color stages throughout the year. If you can’t find it E-mail me and I will send you any info I can find. Dave

Response:

Ducks at a distance can be found online at the following site: http://www.npsc.nbs.gov/resource/tools/duckdist/duckdist.htm >On Wed, 22 Jan 1997, Nancy Kranak (by way of Alex Vitek

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Looking for a good book, on waterfowl identification; for a friend, who > just started duck hunting..and can’t tell the difference between a teal > and a TWA jet…;) Just kidding! > Thanks for any help! > ..NAK >"Ducks at a Distance," by Bob Hines for the USFWS and available through >most state natural resources offices, is very good. It’s available on the >web, too. Someone posted the address a while back. >Also, Frank Bellrose’s "Ducks, Geese and Swans of North America" is very >good. This book has feeding habits, color plates, migration chronology >and, best of all, migration corridors. Very informative. I like looking >at the migration routes during the off-season, planning the attack for >next year. >Tom Pink >E.U.P. Duck Camp

Jeff Capell Cary, NC

Response:

>>> Looking for a good book, on waterfowl identification;

Tx parks and wildlife provides a good guide, I’m not sure if its Ducks at a Distance or not, but you might call, they are in Austin area 512. Also the Peterson’s guides are great and available virtually everywhere. Their only shortcoming is that they require a bit of reading ahead of time as they aren’t always in color. Jay

Response:

> Looking for a good book, on waterfowl identification; for a friend, who > just started duck hunting..and can’t tell the difference between a teal > and a TWA jet…;) Just kidding! > Thanks for any help! > ..NAK

Don’t know where to find a book but try these websights. Waterfowl I.D. : http://www.npsc.nbs.gov/resource/tools/waterfwl/waterfwl.htm Ducks at a distance: http://www.npsc.nbs.gov/resource/tools/duckdist/duckdist.htm

Response:

Remington 1100 and Steel Shot

Question:

> I just inherited a Remington 1100 that was probably purchased in 1981. > Does anyone know if this gun can handle steel shot?

:I inherited two 1100s, a 12 and a 20, a few years ago.  I have faithfully :shot the 12 with steel the whole time (I think it was ‘87 when steel was :mandated in Texas, and that’s when I started) and haven’t had very many :problems beyond those ordinarily associated with using steel on ducks.  One :small problem: both the 12 and the 20 are chambered for 2 3/4" loads, and :neither one are labelled for magnums.  This is okay for ducks, but it’s :damn hard to find a non-magnum load of steel 2s or 1s, and I’ve had zero :luck so far in tracking down a non-magnum load of BBs or BBBs in that :species.  So I’ve been taking a chance and shooting 2 3/4" magnum shells :every now and then.  (I’ve used the 20 once for ducks, and we didn’t see :any that day… I’ve also yet to find 20 gauge steel non-magnum in anything :bigger than 6s.) :This is probably a hazardous choice on my part, though…      You can use any 2 3/4" shell in your gun. They are all loaded to the same pressure stands and are safe to shoot.  You CAN’T use 3 inch shells.  Bill I. —

Response:

Hello,,      I have an older (1973) 1100 trap model , the barrel is 30" full. I wanted to use the gun for ducks, etc. , so purchased a ’steel shot’ barrel ($140) of 26" with chokes and greatly expanded the usefulness of this gun. Except for the lousy finish work the barrel works fine with all 2 3/4 and 3" shells I have put through it. I was concerned about pounding the action with 3" shells, but a call to Remington made me feel more comfortable. They stated that was the reason they designed this barrel, so you could shoot 3" steel in an older gun. The shorter length also is a great advantage in heavy cover and tules when duck hunting.    Good luck.    Hank — Hank Urbach and hunting partners Rainbow’s Eagle River Buck SH Rainbow Mac’s Starry Sky JH Hill’s Ferry Hunting Retriever Club,  CA

Response:

>I just inherited a Remington 1100 that was probably purchased in 1981. >Does anyone know if this gun can handle steel shot?

It really depends on the barrel. If it is less then a full choke you are good to go. If it is a full, you can either buy a new Remington barrel ($$$), a new Hastings barrel ($$), or find a used barrel ($). The big benefit of a new barrel is you can/will get screw in chokes. The original barrel probably will not have screw in chokes.                 Pete

Response:

It depends.  If it is an improved cylinder choke, it might.  However, why take the chance?  You can get a Remington steel shot barrel.  Or you can do what I did and have Briley chokes installed.

Response:

I just inherited a Remington 1100 that was probably purchased in 1981. Does anyone know if this gun can handle steel shot?

Response:

> I just inherited a Remington 1100 that was probably purchased in 1981. > Does anyone know if this gun can handle steel shot?

I inherited two 1100s, a 12 and a 20, a few years ago.  I have faithfully shot the 12 with steel the whole time (I think it was ‘87 when steel was mandated in Texas, and that’s when I started) and haven’t had very many problems beyond those ordinarily associated with using steel on ducks.  One small problem: both the 12 and the 20 are chambered for 2 3/4" loads, and neither one are labelled for magnums.  This is okay for ducks, but it’s damn hard to find a non-magnum load of steel 2s or 1s, and I’ve had zero luck so far in tracking down a non-magnum load of BBs or BBBs in that species.  So I’ve been taking a chance and shooting 2 3/4" magnum shells every now and then.  (I’ve used the 20 once for ducks, and we didn’t see any that day… I’ve also yet to find 20 gauge steel non-magnum in anything bigger than 6s.) This is probably a hazardous choice on my part, though… — David White Iron Bison Enterprises

Response:

Belgian Browning Shotguns

Question:

I am considering buying a 1974 Browning Magnum 12 guage for duck hunting. I have heard that steel shot ruins the barrels of older shotguns.  Does anyone have any first hand information on this? If the Belgian Brownings are not a good gun for steel shot, can anyone recommend a new automatic that isn’t prone to jamming? Thank you for your help. John Leach

Response:

>I am considering buying a 1974 Browning Magnum 12 guage for duck hunting. >I have heard that steel shot ruins the barrels of older shotguns.  Does >anyone have any first hand information on this? >If the Belgian Brownings are not a good gun for steel shot, can anyone >recommend a new automatic that isn’t prone to jamming? >Thank you for your help. >John Leach

John, Browning does not recommend using steel shot in their Belgian made O/Us. As to semi-autos, hunters have had good luck with the short recoil operated Benellis (expensive at around $1000) and the gas operated Beretta 390s costing around $650.  Some of the Benelli models can handle 3 1/2" shells if you want to celebrate the Fourth of July in January. You will find some fairly detailed technical discussions on the pros and cons of the Beretta and Benelli if you root through the archives of <http://www.shotgunreport.com>. Best regards, Bruce Buck Shotgun Report’s Technoid (Often in error, never in doubt.

Response:

> I am considering buying a 1974 Browning Magnum 12 guage for duck hunting. > I have heard that steel shot ruins the barrels of older shotguns.  Does > anyone have any first hand information on this? > If the Belgian Brownings are not a good gun for steel shot, can anyone > recommend a new automatic that isn’t prone to jamming? > Thank you for your help. > John Leach

John,         I hunt quail, dove, duck and goose in South Georgia using a Browning Gold Hunter. It is the only browning sgun still made in Belgium. I love it. No jams. Excellent pattern. Very good quality for an autoloading sgun. I paid $550.00 for the gun. Take a look at the 26" barrel over the 28 or 30 as it has a very good balance and feel.                                         Happy Hunting.

Response:

> I am considering buying a 1974 Browning Magnum 12 guage for duck hunting. > I have heard that steel shot ruins the barrels of older shotguns.  Does > anyone have any first hand information on this? > If the Belgian Brownings are not a good gun for steel shot, can anyone > recommend a new automatic that isn’t prone to jamming? > Thank you for your help. > John Leach

Browning does indeed warn against shooting steel shot in the older A5’s that were made in Belgium. You can call them to verify this. What you can do is buy one of the new Browning A5 barrels that are made in Japan and have choke tubes to boot. I know this will work because this is what I did for my Browning Sweet 16 that is made in Belgium. The new barrel fit just fine and functioned well too. You might have to have a gunsmith fit the newer barrel to the older gun, but only do this if the gun does not function when fired. It should work. Jay

Response:

Comments on Whitetail Drive ethics

Question:

>I’m a believer in the first fatal hit. If the shot that you made would have >been sufficient to kill the deer, then the animal should have been yours. >Your friend’s (friend ?)"he who kills, keeps" rule doesn’t hold water as >far as I’m concerned. If the animal was felled but still breathing and he >ran up and put a finishing shot in her, would he be able to claim it? >With that said, I would think that since a deer drive is a "joint effort" >that there should be a understanding that everyone would share in the >drive’s success. In other words, all animals would be butchered & would >be evenly divided among the participants.The only thing that I can say to >you is that your "friend" was hard up to kill/claim the animal. If I was >in your boots, I’d think twice about hunting with him again. >As far as shooting a deer that someone else has shot. Yes, I would do it. >If the aniaml is still ambulatory and there is a "chance" that they might >get away, I’d shoot it. I would still apply the "first fatal" hit rule.

WE hunt deer by driving them to standers also it doesn’t matter who shoots the deer because we all helped so when the deer get all cut up and packaged the meat is divided up equally among everybody.  That is the only fair way to do it as far as I am concerned!

Response:

It would have been wrong for him not to shoot her.  A wounded animal should be put down as quickly as possible. As for who the animal belongs to, the three general rules of thumb are "first hit", "last hit", or "first fatal hit" – meaning the first wound that obviously would have been fatal had noone else shot the animal afterwards.  It sounds like your friend is adding a fourth – "last fatal hit".  It really is a matter of opinion, and customs vary widely across the country. IMHO "first fatal hit" is the appropriate way to determine who gets the carcass.  In particularly contentions situations where grey areas (or a** holes) are involved, deals such as splitting the meat, or one person taking the trophy, the other the meat, etc. etc. etc. are called for.  I think it was your deer. Steve Jones

Response:

>       I was Hunting recently in Central New York.  Three members of our snip > doe.  The hit was obvious as she stumbled, began to lie down and then ran. >  My experience told me that it was a shot near her spine.  Another hunter > in our party saw me shoot her, he even yelled congratulations to me as she > began to buckle.  However, here is my predicament.  After she ran, she > crossed into his path at short range.  He took a shot and put her down. > He claims that the rule is, "he who kills, keeps".  I cannot disagree with > this, but why would he take his shot after an obvious hit by me.  When we

This sort of etiquette varies immensely from region to region and from club to club.  I hunt with my extended family, so we tend to share and share alike.  IOW, everyone who participates in the hunt gets an equal share of the meat.  This includes those who were not present when the deer was shot, and even those who just helped set up stands before the season. The head goes to whoever wants it most.  Usually this means the person who fired the fatal bullet, but it can mean the one who wants to spend money on a mount. The sort of dispute yoeu reported can spoil a pleasant outing, so the best policy is just to clearly enunciate whatever rule your club wants to follow before you set out.  Post hoc rules are never entirely satisfactory. Whatever rule you follow, I think that it is a good policy for anyone who has a safe shot to keep shooting at a wounded deer until the deer is down for keeps.  It is easy to misjudge bullet placement (was that shot 4" fore or aft of the diaphragm?), so it is best to err on the side of caution. — Keep your stick on the ice.

Response:

As someone who has hunted in groups many times Ive learned the importance of having rules set up in advance of hunting as we( and I mean hunting with my family) have different ways of looking at a situation. We do all agree that the majortiy should rule in all situations. so I guess my answer is that whatever your group thinks is right would be what you should do. Good hunting. Bill

Response:

> However, here is my predicament.  After she ran, she >crossed into his path at short range.  He took a shot and put her down. >He claims that the rule is, "he who kills, keeps".  I cannot disagree >this, but why would he take his shot after an obvious hit by

I was going to stay away from this thread, but no one ever accused me of possessing restraint; It is beyond my comprehension why there would be a disagreement over a deer harvested as a result of a "drive".  You need new hunting companions.  I assume there must not be any sharing of the game, because if there was, I’d let someone else tag all they wanted, and I would go on to hunt another day.  If this involved perfect strangers it would be understandable but again if someone wants to tag and take the deer that bad, unless my family is going to starve that winter – let them have it.  I guess I enjoy being in the woods to much and less concerned about "body counts".  Now for a brief editorial, I feel that NY whitetail deer drives are accidents waiting to happen and I can’t see the merit or fun in them, other than putting meat on the table.  You’ve got people pushing deer towards others in positions to shoot them when they see them !!!  HELLO, is there something wrong with this picture?  People are down range, the target is usually running to beat all hell, and you can’t tell me everyone knows where everyone is. The final thought – is this hunting ???  Now lets add insult to injury and argue over a deer harvested in this manner on who dispatched the animal !!!  I have friends who organize and are involved in "drives".  I chose not to participate and pray none of them get hurt.  I’m off still hunting, with patience and enjoying the environment.I may not end up with as much "meat" but I fell I end up with more "sport". Mark A Berger (Master Hunting Safety Instructor) Madison County (Upstate NY) Someone who thinks logically provides a nice contrast to the real world.

Response:

> I would have shot at it if it was still running and I had a clear shot. > Better to kill it then take a chance losing it. I do the same thing > with ducks that have been hit by a partner. Kill the bird and avoid the > chance of losing (and wasting) it. On the other hand, if I fired the > second shot, I wouldn’t have hesitated to offer the deer to the guy who > made the first hit – hoping like heck that he’d offer to split! :) I > can’t imagine hunting with someone who wouldn’t look at that deer as > being a "team effort" kill.

I guess different hunters have different views on what is theirs but in the groups I’ve hunted with it is an unwritten agreement that all game meat is split evenly amongst the group and processing costs are equally shared.  In a situation where an animal is wounded and still on the move another member of the party would be expected to finish the kill.  If the animal was a trophy animal there might be some discussion over who gets the head/antlers but we’ve never had a disagreement on one yet. I’ve hunted with at least three different groups since moving to Colorado and have friends in others and this agreement seems to be common here. Larry If you don’t care where you are, you ain’t lost.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->       I was Hunting recently in Central New York.  Three members of our > party of eight were drive a set of Hardwoods.  Much to our surprise, six > Doe trotted out of the Hardwoods to elude the drivers.  I was the only > in position to take a shot, so I set up and aimed and hit a fair sized > doe.  The hit was obvious as she stumbled, began to lie down and then >  My experience told me that it was a shot near her spine.  Another hunter > in our party saw me shoot her, he even yelled congratulations to me as > began to buckle.  However, here is my predicament.  After she ran, she > crossed into his path at short range.  He took a shot and put her down. > He claims that the rule is, "he who kills, keeps".  I cannot disagree > this, but why would he take his shot after an obvious hit by me.  When we > processed her, my first guess was correct.  There was a shot high on her > front quarter, the expansion of the shell caused spinal damage.  His shot > cut her spine completely.  (As a sidenote, we both need to sight our > guns.)  I have only hunted for a few years and want to know everything I > can.  Please comment on this story.  I am especially curious if other > hunters would take a shot at a deer that they know has been obviously > seriously hit.

First of all, whenever an animal is injured by a hunter, it is that hunter’s, and all other hunter’s responsibility to see to it that the animal is dispatched, as quickly and humanely as possible and not wasted. It was good for him to take the follow up shot. In theory, he is wrong about the rule. It should be he who makes the first lethal shot keeps. In reality this is not the way it works. I hunt in PA and basically it seems to be whomever gets to the dead deer first keeps it. This, by the way, is ridiculous. I could go on for pages about this. We had a 74 year old guy knock down a nice buck last year, (on his birthday) and some 23 year old came up and took it from him because he shot it first. He tried to claim Walt shot it on the ground! He had hit it in the back leg. Walt’s shot went through the chest wiping out both lungs. Obviously, Walt had killed the deer. I’ll never figure out how claiming a deer you didn’t kill makes a person feel good. To me the biggest accomplishment is taking the deer myself. I’d just as soon keep hunting. Here’s the real deal as far as I’m concerned. If you are out hunting and you make a good shot on the deer, and another hunter shoots it, or wants to claim it, try to have a level-headed conversation and figure out who the deer belongs to. If he/she wants to insist the deer is theirs and is ready to get in a fight over it, let them have it. Chances are it isn’t your first deer and probably won’t be your last. It’s not worth getting in a fist/gun fight over!                         Pete

Response:

Sounds to me like you need to find some new hunting buddies.  If I were in that situation, I would have shot the deer for two reasons: 1) to make sure that the deer was down without having to worry about tracking for possible miles 2) to put the deer down and out of its misery ASAP. My father and uncles used to hunt using drives fairly often, but they found that even though they saw more deer and had more shots, they also had a higher number of wounded deer with more tracking involved.  That is understandable when you have deer that usually come out of the woods at a fairly good clip and people are shooting off-hand at running deer. As far as who should have kept the deer, I think that I would have quickly inspected the deer and tried to determine if the first shot was a mortal shot.  I would have squeezed the trigger assuming that I was putting the deer down for you, not myself.  That’s just me though. Scott

Response:

 >      I was Hunting recently in Central New York.  Three members of our  >party of eight were drive a set of Hardwoods.  Much to our surprise, six  >Doe trotted out of the Hardwoods to elude the drivers.  I was the only one  >in position to take a shot, so I set up and aimed and hit a fair sized  >doe.  The hit was obvious as she stumbled, began to lie down and then ran.  > My experience told me that it was a shot near her spine.  Another hunter  >in our party saw me shoot her, he even yelled congratulations to me as she  >began to buckle.  However, here is my predicament.  After she ran, she  >crossed into his path at short range.  He took a shot and put her down.  >He claims that the rule is, "he who kills, keeps".  I cannot disagree with  >this, but why would he take his shot after an obvious hit by me.  When we  >processed her, my first guess was correct.  There was a shot high on her  >front quarter, the expansion of the shell caused spinal damage.  His shot  >cut her spine completely.  (As a sidenote, we both need to sight our  >guns.)  I have only hunted for a few years and want to know everything I  >can.  Please comment on this story.  I am especially curious if other  >hunters would take a shot at a deer that they know has been obviously  >seriously hit. I’m a believer in the first fatal hit. If the shot that you made would have been sufficient to kill the deer, then the animal should have been yours. Your friend’s (friend ?)"he who kills, keeps" rule doesn’t hold water as far as I’m concerned. If the animal was felled but still breathing and he ran up and put a finishing shot in her, would he be able to claim it? With that said, I would think that since a deer drive is a "joint effort" that there should be a understanding that everyone would share in the drive’s success. In other words, all animals would be butchered & would be evenly divided among the participants.The only thing that I can say to you is that your "friend" was hard up to kill/claim the animal. If I was in your boots, I’d think twice about hunting with him again. As far as shooting a deer that someone else has shot. Yes, I would do it. If the aniaml is still ambulatory and there is a "chance" that they might get away, I’d shoot it. I would still apply the "first fatal" hit rule. Woody Williams If you’re too busy to hunt, you’re too busy.

Response:

If I was hunting in a party and a wounded animal came running my way.  I most certainly would shoot it, to hopefully end it’s suffering.  I however would NOT keep it.  IMHO, he should have shot it, you should have offered him a nice cut of meat and it should have been YOUR kill.  If it would have dropped at his feet but still kicking, would he have still shot it and claimed it was his?   In my mind that’s a strange policy.  It also seems that encourages ‘every man for himself’ and could potentially screw up someone’s hard work.  I think I’d find someone else to hunt with. Just my opinion.  I think I was wrong once before. Good luck, Stephen 250-25X  It’s possible. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->       I was Hunting recently in Central New York.  Three members of our > party of eight were drive a set of Hardwoods.  Much to our surprise, six > Doe trotted out of the Hardwoods to elude the drivers.  I was the only one > in position to take a shot, so I set up and aimed and hit a fair sized > doe.  The hit was obvious as she stumbled, began to lie down and then ran. >  My experience told me that it was a shot near her spine.  Another hunter > in our party saw me shoot her, he even yelled congratulations to me as she > began to buckle.  However, here is my predicament.  After she ran, she > crossed into his path at short range.  He took a shot and put her down. > He claims that the rule is, "he who kills, keeps".  I cannot disagree with > this, but why would he take his shot after an obvious hit by me.  When we > processed her, my first guess was correct.  There was a shot high on her > front quarter, the expansion of the shell caused spinal damage.  His shot > cut her spine completely.  (As a sidenote, we both need to sight our > guns.)  I have only hunted for a few years and want to know everything I > can.  Please comment on this story.  I am especially curious if other > hunters would take a shot at a deer that they know has been obviously > seriously hit.

Response:

 However, here is my predicament.  After she ran, she >crossed into his path at short range.  He took a shot and put her down. >He claims that the rule is, "he who kills, keeps".  I cannot disagree with >this, but why would he take his shot after an obvious hit by me.  When we >processed her, my first guess was correct.  There was a shot high on her >front quarter, the expansion of the shell caused spinal damage.  His shot >cut her spine completely.  (As a sidenote, we both need to sight our >guns.)  I have only hunted for a few years and want to know everything I >can.  Please comment on this story.  I am especially curious if other >hunters would take a shot at a deer that they know has been obviously >seriously hit.

I am of the "first mortal hit gets the deer" school of thought.  In the Smith clan (& our hunting friends), the original shooter would tag the deer in the above situation.  In the event of a hard-hit deer that’s still going, we consider it "good hunting" to safely put down a deer for a fellow hunter. However, I realize that it’s not always so clear cut.  What if the deer is gut-shot?  Sure, it will *eventually* die, but that’s not a "mortal hit" IMO. Of course, one can  avoid many (most?) such predicaments by only shooting at stationary targets, using a sighted-in gun, and practicing your shooting skills year-round.

Response:

In hunter education classes we stress the "Rule of First Blood", which is, "He who makes the first mortal hit takes the deer." If the first hit is questionable as to it’s effectiveness let the shoot have it anyways or if you are hunting together the first shooter can offer to split the deer.  I have often taken a second shot on behalf a fellow hunter to quickly put down an animal.  I do it to quickly avoid any suffering on the animals part and to assure that the animal is found easily.  I will not get involved in any argument as to whether or not the first shot would have been eventually lethal.  It automatically goes to the first shooter (assuming that there is 2 entry holes in it). Bill WI

Response:

|> >       I was Hunting recently in Central New York.  Three members of our |> snip |> > doe.  The hit was obvious as she stumbled, began to lie down and then ran. |> >  My experience told me that it was a shot near her spine.  Another hunter |> > in our party saw me shoot her, he even yelled congratulations to me as she |> > began to buckle.  However, here is my predicament.  After she ran, she |> > crossed into his path at short range.  He took a shot and put her down. |> > He claims that the rule is, "he who kills, keeps".  I cannot disagree with |> > this, but why would he take his shot after an obvious hit by me.  When we |> |> This sort of etiquette varies immensely from region to region and from |> club to club.  I hunt with my extended family, so we tend to share and |> share alike.  IOW, everyone who participates in the hunt gets an equal |> share of the meat.  This includes those who were not present when the deer |> was shot, and even those who just helped set up stands before the season. |> The head goes to whoever wants it most.  Usually this means the person who |> fired the fatal bullet, but it can mean the one who wants to spend money |> on a mount. |> |> The sort of dispute yoeu reported can spoil a pleasant outing, so the best |> policy is just to clearly enunciate whatever rule your club wants to |> follow before you set out.  Post hoc rules are never entirely satisfactory. |> |> Whatever rule you follow, I think that it is a good policy for anyone who |> has a safe shot to keep shooting at a wounded deer until the deer is down |> for keeps.  It is easy to misjudge bullet placement (was that shot 4" fore |> or aft of the diaphragm?), so it is best to err on the side of caution. |> — |> |> Keep your stick on the ice. |> I’m still pretty much a novice deer hunter but I can relate my duck hunting philosophy on the matter. It is understood when I duck hunt with someone that if they hit a duck and it doesn’t drop immediately, I will attempt to hit it again while still in the air. A duck that glides down or coasts down stands a good chance of getting away unfound if we don’t follow this rule. It is agreeded upon that the bird belongs to the first person that hits the bird. We consider this an extension of finishing a duck off on the water. —  NSWCDD Dahlgren, VA           My views and opinions are my own! We don’t understand the software or the hardware but we can *SEE* the blinking lights!

Response:

>       I was Hunting recently in Central New York.  Three members of our snip > doe.  The hit was obvious as she stumbled, began to lie down and then ran. >  My experience told me that it was a shot near her spine.  Another hunter > in our party saw me shoot her, he even yelled congratulations to me as she > began to buckle.  However, here is my predicament.  After she ran, she > crossed into his path at short range.  He took a shot and put her down. > He claims that the rule is, "he who kills, keeps".  I cannot disagree with > this, but why would he take his shot after an obvious hit by me.  When we

This sort of etiquette varies immensely from region to region and from club to club.  I hunt with my extended family, so we tend to share and share alike.  IOW, everyone who participates in the hunt gets an equal share of the meat.  This includes those who were not present when the deer was shot, and even those who just helped set up stands before the season. The head goes to whoever wants it most.  Usually this means the person who fired the fatal bullet, but it can mean the one who wants to spend money on a mount. The sort of dispute yoeu reported can spoil a pleasant outing, so the best policy is just to clearly enunciate whatever rule your club wants to follow before you set out.  Post hoc rules are never entirely satisfactory. Whatever rule you follow, I think that it is a good policy for anyone who has a safe shot to keep shooting at a wounded deer until the deer is down for keeps.  It is easy to misjudge bullet placement (was that shot 4" fore or aft of the diaphragm?), so it is best to err on the side of caution. — Keep your stick on the ice.

Response:

It would have been wrong for him not to shoot her.  A wounded animal should be put down as quickly as possible. As for who the animal belongs to, the three general rules of thumb are "first hit", "last hit", or "first fatal hit" – meaning the first wound that obviously would have been fatal had noone else shot the animal afterwards.  It sounds like your friend is adding a fourth – "last fatal hit".  It really is a matter of opinion, and customs vary widely across the country. IMHO "first fatal hit" is the appropriate way to determine who gets the carcass.  In particularly contentions situations where grey areas (or a** holes) are involved, deals such as splitting the meat, or one person taking the trophy, the other the meat, etc. etc. etc. are called for.  I think it was your deer. Steve Jones

Response:

|> He took a shot and put her down. |> He claims that the rule is, "he who kills, keeps". Sounds like you’ve already sorted out the answer.  Of course there may come a day when this rule accrues in your favor. |> I am especially curious if other |> hunters would take a shot at a deer that they know has been obviously |> seriously hit. That’s one of the many issues I have with drive-style hunts.  One deer just might attract the ballistic attention of several hunters, which can be sloppy or even dangerous.  I’d shoot to prevent a wounded deer from escaping I suppose, but I’d like to think I wouldn’t whack a deer someone else has obviously mortally wounded just to tag it for myself. So, are you going to hunt with the same crew next season? — Michael Brady

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->       I was Hunting recently in Central New York.  Three members of our > party of eight were drive a set of Hardwoods.  Much to our surprise, six > Doe trotted out of the Hardwoods to elude the drivers.  I was the only one > in position to take a shot, so I set up and aimed and hit a fair sized > doe.  The hit was obvious as she stumbled, began to lie down and then ran. >  My experience told me that it was a shot near her spine.  Another hunter > in our party saw me shoot her, he even yelled congratulations to me as she > began to buckle.  However, here is my predicament.  After she ran, she > crossed into his path at short range.  He took a shot and put her down. > He claims that the rule is, "he who kills, keeps".  I cannot disagree with > this, but why would he take his shot after an obvious hit by me.  When we > processed her, my first guess was correct.  There was a shot high on her > front quarter, the expansion of the shell caused spinal damage.  His shot > cut her spine completely.  (As a sidenote, we both need to sight our > guns.)  I have only hunted for a few years and want to know everything I > can.  Please comment on this story.  I am especially curious if other > hunters would take a shot at a deer that they know has been obviously > seriously hit.

I would have shot at it if it was still running and I had a clear shot. Better to kill it then take a chance losing it. I do the same thing with ducks that have been hit by a partner. Kill the bird and avoid the chance of losing (and wasting) it. On the other hand, if I fired the second shot, I wouldn’t have hesitated to offer the deer to the guy who made the first hit – hoping like heck that he’d offer to split! :) I can’t imagine hunting with someone who wouldn’t look at that deer as being a "team effort" kill. Tom Pink E.U.P. Duck Camp

Response:

I’ve seen and heard too many stories about deer running off and escaping.  If it was still moving, I would have shot her. My opinion may be tainted by tracking a well hit doe about 2 miles last Saturday.  It was the first deer I’ve ever lost… Tim

Response:

      I was Hunting recently in Central New York.  Three members of our party of eight were drive a set of Hardwoods.  Much to our surprise, six Doe trotted out of the Hardwoods to elude the drivers.  I was the only one in position to take a shot, so I set up and aimed and hit a fair sized doe.  The hit was obvious as she stumbled, began to lie down and then ran.  My experience told me that it was a shot near her spine.  Another hunter in our party saw me shoot her, he even yelled congratulations to me as she began to buckle.  However, here is my predicament.  After she ran, she crossed into his path at short range.  He took a shot and put her down. He claims that the rule is, "he who kills, keeps".  I cannot disagree with this, but why would he take his shot after an obvious hit by me.  When we processed her, my first guess was correct.  There was a shot high on her front quarter, the expansion of the shell caused spinal damage.  His shot cut her spine completely.  (As a sidenote, we both need to sight our guns.)  I have only hunted for a few years and want to know everything I can.  Please comment on this story.  I am especially curious if other hunters would take a shot at a deer that they know has been obviously seriously hit.

Response: