cable guard, what is it for?
Question:
What is the purpose of a cable guard on a compound bow? Thank You, Ben
Response:
>What is the purpose of a cable guard on a compound bow? >Thank You, >Ben
to keep the cable out of arrow path…
Category: Compound Bow
Shorter draw, slower arrows????
Question:
Is there a rule of thumb about how many FPS you’ll lose by shortening draw length by one inch? If it makes a difference, I’m shooting a hard solo cam at 60 lbs, currently at 30" draw. 29.5 inches feels more comfortable when it’s cold and the heavy clothes are on, and I’m gonna try 29" later. Thanks! Lynn
Response:
> Is there a rule of thumb about how many FPS you’ll lose by shortening > draw length by one inch? > If it makes a difference, I’m shooting a hard solo cam at 60 lbs, > currently at 30" draw. 29.5 inches feels more comfortable when it’s > cold and the heavy clothes are on, and I’m gonna try 29" later. > Thanks! > Lynn
On average 1" is worth about 5fps
Response:
Is that based of compound or recurve? Let’s say someone shoots the same compound bow exactly, one has a 30 inch draw one has 29 inch draw, arrows are the same length though (say they use an overdraw) though. Let’s say they both pull 70 lbs. Who has the faster bow? Han Su Kim
Response:
> > Is there a rule of thumb about how many FPS you’ll lose by shortening > draw length by one inch? > On average 1" is worth about 5fps
As long as you shoot the same arrow. But you could (a) shorten your arrows by 1" (b) use a thinner (lighter) shaft (preceding box in the Easton tables). One would have to balance the loss of speed from shorter draw length against the gain from using lighter arrows. Sorry, I do not have details. Best regards - H.Oe.
Response:
Interesting question. With a compound with cams the 30" will clearly be faster. Assuming the same bow with different draw length cams (not just short stringing it) the difference in force draw curves is at peak draw weight. The curves are flat at the peak weight, the brace height is the same, the holding weight is the same and the rate of increase or decrease from peak weight is the same. In other words the longer bow stores one more inch at 70 lbs., or 70 inch pounds or about 5.8 more ft. lbs of energy. That’s probably more than 5% more energy. It is also likely to be more efficient at delivering it. With a recurve, the bows can’t be the same to draw 2 different lengths at the same weight. However if the draw weight of the recurve could be adjusted one could have the same bow with the same brace height that draw 70 lbs at both 29" and 30". Again the 30" will store more energy but only about half the compound value as the longer draw will store a little more energy all through the curve. Again it seems to me the 30" will also be more efficient, as it has more time to deliver its energy. Bill > Is that based of compound or recurve? > Let’s say someone shoots the same compound bow exactly, one has a 30 inch > draw one has 29 inch draw, arrows are the same length though (say they use > an overdraw) though. Let’s say they both pull 70 lbs. Who has the faster > bow? > Han Su Kim
Interesting question*** This message sent with 100% recycled electrons ***
Response:
FS: Good Bow
Question:
I have a good compound bow forsale it is great for kids 10-17 It is brand new almost bought it used for a couple of times but not in bad shape. it is new. Paid $600 but willing to part for about $350 obo. It is a high country, but i forget the name. compound bow, comes with hard plastic case and a quiver on bow. Comes with 12 easton graphite field tiped arrows. counter weight gloves, and an extra string (harder pull) willing to sell $350 nothing less unless reasonable
Response:
No turnip trucks going this way!!! My wife left!! Wonder who’s gonna clean this deer now?
Response:
if you want pictures email me
Response:
HIGH COUNTRY OLYMPIC CHAMPION
Question:
Does anyone know anything about this type of Compound Bow.
Response:
>Does anyone know anything about this type of Compound Bow.
No, but I sure hope that’s not the name. Besides being a violation of U.S. Federal Law (USC 380) it’s silly to call a compound by that name.
Response:
Well better be shocked because that is the name and if your federal law has a problem with Let them deal with it Not really my problem
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Does anyone know anything about this type of Compound Bow. >No, but I sure hope that’s not the name. Besides being a violation of U.S. >Federal Law (USC 380) it’s silly to call a compound by that name.
Response:
>Does anyone know anything about this type of Compound Bow
Yeah, the company that makes it is going out of business. Buy something else !
Response:
Can we discuss bow design?
Question:
I’m looking to buy my first bow soon. I’ve been looking around and asking questions (thanks to all you who’ve replied!) and I’ve noticed something I’d like input about: Ideally, it seems to me that the centerline of the arrow (nock point to arrow rest) should like exactly halfway between the endpoints of the bow, for symmetry/stability/performance etc. On the other hand, the points at which my hand contacts the grip and my fingers draw the string should ALSO be exactly halfway between the endpoints of the bow. Obviously, these both can’t happen — although I could get pretty close at the string, I can’t put an arrow through my hand. Well, not comfortably anyway. The Hoyt bows seem to put the hands on center, and the arrow above. The Martin bows seem to put the arrow on center and the hands below. What are the advantages to each? It seems to me the Martin bows would be harder to hold stably (apart from their reflex design, which I don’t think I want anyway), but the Hoyt bows might give up a bit of something also. If the arrow is above center and nocked so that it is perpendicular to the string (when not drawn), then wouldn’t the nock point (being above center) move vertically during draw/release? How does this affect arrow flight? I’d be very interested in a general discussion on this topic, and everyone’s feelings about particular manufacturers and bows. Thanks! BTW – Anyone know of a place in Southern California where I can actually TRY several of these bows before I buy one? I’m not sure I like the idea of having to special order a $600 bow (I’m leaning strongly toward the Hoyt Oasis Plus) without being able to try it first! — Brian Wainscott | No Jesus —> No Peace
Response:
> Ideally, it seems to me that the centerline of the arrow (nock point to > arrow rest) should like exactly halfway between the endpoints of the > bow, for symmetry/stability/performance etc.
Well you can’t have it both ways. Unless you have a hole in your hand. The force is distributed equally between the 2 limbs, is the reason it works. Timing plays a factor as well. If you move your anchor point (on string) the timing will move ever so slightly. Creating an unequal release path. This is what makes the single cam work so well. However, it too still needs to be watched closely. Hand at center or below. It’s a fair question. I like my arrow as close to center as possible. This reduces string oscillation and the likely hood of timing problems. My current bow allows me to be within 1/2" of true center. Even with all of the above said. You still have to factor in, Wrist High or wrist Low. Thereby adding another vairiable to the works. A lot of pros say "wrist low". Personally I’ve never been able to control my groups with this for. Larry Wise said it best in his "Tuning your compound Bow" book. Finding a bow that can be 100% in every way. Happens, only every now and then. Those weren’t his exact words, but, that was the message.
Response:
<snip> > Hand at center or below. It’s a fair question. I like my arrow as close to > center as possible. This reduces string oscillation and the likely hood of > timing problems. My current bow allows me to be within 1/2" of true center.
Although I’m no expert, it would seem to me that it would be better to have the arrow, rather than your hand, on center. If your bow is balanced, it will make up for your hand being below center and still be reasonably easy to control. > Even with all of the above said. You still have to factor in, Wrist High or > wrist Low. Thereby adding another vairiable to the works. A lot of pros say > "wrist low". Personally I’ve never been able to control my groups with this > for.
I’m the other way around. My groups got dramatically better when I switched to a low wrist form. I suspect it has a lot to do with the way your bow is made, but I’m not sure how that dependency works. Here’s something interesting to try though: Hold your arm out as if you were holding a bow in the high wrist position. Notice that you can move your hand all around. With your bow in the web of your hand, between your thumb and index finger, it’s like its at the end of a lever; a little torque can move your hand easily. Now hold your arm out with the low wrist style. Not only does your wrist have less range of motion due to the position of your hand, the force of the bow is now located further down on your hand. The force is not as much on the end of a lever, it’s closer to the actual joint. Low wrist seems to me to be more stable. (obviously just my opinion) It took me a little bit to get used to shooting this way though, because I had a tendency to torque my hand up when releasing the string. This was giving me flyers hitting high, but didn’t take too long to figure out. > Larry Wise said it best in his "Tuning your compound Bow" book. Finding a > bow that can be 100% in every way. Happens, only every now and then. Those > weren’t his exact words, but, that was the message.
I don’t think I’ve found that bow yet. . . but I’m still looking. later, Andy C.
Response:
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > <snip> > Hand at center or below. It’s a fair question. I like my arrow as close to > center as possible. This reduces string oscillation and the likely hood of > timing problems. My current bow allows me to be within 1/2" of true center. > Although I’m no expert, it would seem to me that it would be better to > have the arrow, rather than your hand, on center. If your bow is balanced, > it will make up for your hand being below center and still be reasonably > easy to control. > Even with all of the above said. You still have to factor in, Wrist High or > wrist Low. Thereby adding another vairiable to the works. A lot of pros say > "wrist low". Personally I’ve never been able to control my groups with this > for.
Can you explain Wrist High and Wrist Low? I have no idea what you are talking about! Thanks! — Brian Wainscott | No Jesus —> No Peace
Response:
> I’m looking to buy my first bow soon. I’ve been looking around and > asking questions (thanks to all you who’ve replied!) and I’ve noticed > something I’d like input about: > Ideally, it seems to me that the centerline of the arrow (nock point to > arrow rest) should like exactly halfway between the endpoints of the > bow, for symmetry/stability/performance etc.
Not necessarily. What you are looking for is a balance of forces and speed between bottom and top limbs. Most compound bows must make design compromises that result in balance point of the forces to be somewhere other than the middle of the bow. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> On the other hand, the points at which my hand contacts the grip and my > fingers draw the string should ALSO be exactly halfway between the > endpoints of the bow. > Obviously, these both can’t happen — although I could get pretty close > at the string, I can’t put an arrow through my hand. Well, not > comfortably anyway. > The Hoyt bows seem to put the hands on center, and the arrow above. The > Martin bows seem to put the arrow on center and the hands below. What > are the advantages to each? It seems to me the Martin bows would be > harder to hold stably (apart from their reflex design, which I don’t > think I want anyway), but the Hoyt bows might give up a bit of something > also. If the arrow is above center and nocked so that it is > perpendicular to the string (when not drawn), then wouldn’t the nock > point (being above center) move vertically during draw/release? How does > this affect arrow flight?
As I mentioned, the balance of limb velocities and forces to not have to coincide with the physical center of the bow. What you will notice is more or less mass of the bow above or below your grip–as a result, each bow requires a different counter-weight on the stablizer to minimize the imbalance at full draw. In practice, most if not all bows can be balanced in spite of difference in design. > I’d be very interested in a general discussion on this topic, and > everyone’s feelings about particular manufacturers and bows.
In my experience, most bow manufacturers, particularly the better known ones all make serviceable bows. It is probably a better idea to determine what type of bow you are looking for and then allow the subjective qualities like esthetics, service and costs make up your mind for you. Hoyt makes great bows, but if you don’t have a good Hoyt dealer around, then it may not be as good as another bow that has good local dealer support. Yes, you can service your own bow, but again, in my experience, most people screw it up (and so do a lot of bow techs…). I would find a knowledgeable dealer first and then consider their recommendations. > Thanks! > BTW – > Anyone know of a place in Southern California where I can actually TRY > several of these bows before I buy one? I’m not sure I like the idea of > having to special order a $600 bow (I’m leaning strongly toward the Hoyt > Oasis Plus) without being able to try it first!
You can’t buy Hoyt (except their Reflex line) unless its from a dealer who should have several in stock. Try the Hoyt or PSE web pages for a listing of local dealers. Andy P.
Response:
> Can you explain Wrist High and Wrist Low? I have no idea what you are > talking about! > Thanks!
Sorry Brian, I forgot that being new to the sport, you might not know what that looks like. Hold your arm out as if you are holding your bow. Your hand is vertical, with your thumb and index finger on the top and making a U shape around the handle of your (imaginary) bow. Rotate your hand as far down as it will go on the end of your wrist. Your fingers are now pointing toward the floor some distance in front of you. This is extreme high wrist, called such becauses your wrist is high in comparison to the center of contact between your bow and your hand. Now rotate your hand upward at the wrist; your fingers are pointing upward at an angle now. This is extreme low wrist, and you guessed it, your wrist is low in comparison to the contact point between your hand and the bow. The handle of your bow is now making contact with your hand all the way along the valley formed between your palm and the meaty part of your thumb. I don’t know if I painted a good word picture or not, so if it still doesn’t make sense, let me know and I’ll scan some pictures and email them to you. later, Andy C. — – Andrew Chouinard – – Ph.D. Student / NASA fellow - – Applied Science Department – – Univ. of Arkansas at Little Rock - > — > Brian Wainscott | No Jesus —> No Peace
Response:
I had wondered for many years why bow manufacturers didn’t make bows with center knock design. I know they do now however, and there must be some valid reasons, even if they are a saleable gimmik. It always made sense to me. I follow what you are telling Brian about the forces and speeds of the 2 limbs. It does seem pertenent however to look at the dynamic geometry of the arrow leaving the bow with a hypothetical fixes riser position/angle. By doing this it is obvious that the arrow knock would go through a vetical arc if it weren’t on center between the two cams. It’s a little different, obviously with single cam bows. I would have to think about those a little more to conclude if it could even be designed in a way that would maintain a knock travel exactly perpendicular to arrow trajectory. Does anyone know if they can do this? and how? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – (snip) > Ideally, it seems to me that the centerline of the arrow (nock point to > arrow rest) should like exactly halfway between the endpoints of the > bow, for symmetry/stability/performance etc. >Not necessarily. What you are looking for is a balance of forces and speed >between bottom and top limbs. Most compound bows must make design >compromises that result in balance point of the forces to be somewhere >other than the middle of the bow. (snip) >In my experience, most bow manufacturers, particularly the better known >ones all make serviceable bows. It is probably a better idea to determine >what type of bow you are looking for and then allow the subjective >qualities like esthetics, service and costs make up your mind for you. (snip) >Andy P.
RC —
Response:
Beginner seeking advice on bow purchase
Question:
I’ve taken a couple of private lessons at the local pro shop, and want to buy my own equpment. These are my thoughts/interests: I’m male, 5′ 10", 34, reasonably strong, and in good health. I want to get a compound bow, and will be finger-shooting. I won’t be hunting, and probably won’t be shooting competitively (but you never know). I live in Southern California, if that makes a difference. I DON’T want to buy a "decent" bow now, then decide in a year that it is inadequate and have to buy another one. On the other hand, I don’t want to spend a fortune now then give it up in six months because I don’t have the time. (But I’d rather do this than have to by a second — I tend to like to buy quality stuff that will last me forever. Heck, if I buy it now and give it up for a few years, I’ll still have it to try again). The pro-shop is about a 30 minute drive from here, but there are open fields I can use just around the corner, so I definitely want to buy something rather than have to go there every time I want to shoot. Ok — so this is where I’m at in the decision process: I’ve only looked at Hoyt bows, and from recommendations I’ve had from my instructor and others, this is probably what I want. The Accutech sounds very nice, but is a bit too much. I want a longer bow, since I’ll be using my fingers. The pro-shop suggested I should probalby shoot in the 50-60 pound range, which seems like a lot to me, but what do I know? The strongest bow I’ve shot so far is a 30 pound recurve. I’m leaning toward the Oasis Plus, with Accuwheel cams, which sounds like it should be nice and smooth. The Carbon 4 limbs are longer, and look beefier which I like. Somehow the Carbonite limbs just look skinny/flimsy in comparison. But the price difference is significant. Even though I won’t be hunting, I’ll probably go camo just because of the price difference — I don’t REALLY care what it looks like, just how it performs. Comments/suggestions? Are the carbonite limbs so good that the extra money isn’t worth it? Should I just grit my teeth and buy a $200 bow and risk having to buy a new one in a year or less? BTW — what are the purposes of an overdraw and the arrowrests that they have to go with them? Is it just so you can get a shorter (= lighter = faster) arrow? What is nice about these rests? Suggestions on sights also very welcome! Thank you all very much for your input! — Brian Wainscott | No Jesus —> No Peace
Response:
I don’t know anyone still shooting who still shoots the first bow he/she bought. There are just too many things you can’t know until you’ve been shooting a while — and some of them are things no one can tell you, either. Think of it like a car. You’re not going to drive it forever. Times change, people change. I know several shooters who use the Oasis Plus and do very well with fingers. For shooting fingers, get the model with 65% letoff (as opposed to 75%) as that will make it less likely your fingers will twist the string at release. Overdraw rests are for increased arrow speed. RB >I’ve taken a couple of private lessons at the local pro shop, and want >to buy my own equpment. These are my thoughts/interests: > >I’m male, 5′ 10", 34, reasonably strong, and in good health. I want to >get a compound bow, and will be finger-shooting. I won’t be hunting, >and probably won’t be shooting competitively (but you never know). I >live in Southern California, if that makes a difference. > >I DON’T want to buy a "decent" bow now, then decide in a year that it is >inadequate and have to buy another one. > >On the other hand, I don’t want to spend a fortune now then give it up >in six months because I don’t have the time. (But I’d rather do this >than have to by a second — I tend to like to buy quality stuff that >will last me forever. Heck, if I buy it now and give it up for a few >years, I’ll still have it to try again). > >The pro-shop is about a 30 minute drive from here, but there are open >fields I can use just around the corner, so I definitely want to buy >something rather than have to go there every time I want to shoot. > >Ok — so this is where I’m at in the decision process: > >I’ve only looked at Hoyt bows, and from recommendations I’ve had from my >instructor and others, this is probably what I want. > >The Accutech sounds very nice, but is a bit too much. > >I want a longer bow, since I’ll be using my fingers. > >The pro-shop suggested I should probalby shoot in the 50-60 pound range, >which seems like a lot to me, but what do I know? The strongest bow >I’ve shot so far is a 30 pound recurve. > >I’m leaning toward the Oasis Plus, with Accuwheel cams, which sounds >like it should be nice and smooth. > >The Carbon 4 limbs are longer, and look beefier which I like. Somehow >the Carbonite limbs just look skinny/flimsy in comparison. But the >price difference is significant. > >Even though I won’t be hunting, I’ll probably go camo just because of >the price difference — I don’t REALLY care what it looks like, just how >it performs. > >Comments/suggestions? Are the carbonite limbs so good that the extra >money isn’t worth it? Should I just grit my teeth and buy a $200 bow >and risk having to buy a new one in a year or less? > >BTW — what are the purposes of an overdraw and the arrowrests that they >have to go with them? Is it just so you can get a shorter (= lighter = >faster) arrow? What is nice about these rests? > >Suggestions on sights also very welcome! > >Thank you all very much for your input! "She sang beyond the genius of the sea …" — Wallace Stevens
Response:
Brian, I would recommend to Accutec or Oasis Plus to anybody, especially finger shooters. I have been shooting both of these bows and they have been performing great. As far as limbs go I am shooting the Carbon Plus 4 limbs and I am pleased with them. The Carbon Plus 4 limb is flared, unlike the carbonite limb to increase stability, but it is also a longer limb. I think they are worth the extra bucks, but you’ll have to decide for yourself. I would recommend the Command Cam over the Accuwheel though. I have shot both and the Command Cam seems to be a more consistant shooting wheel. You can get it in 75% or 65% let-off. Good Luck Roger Hoyle Hoyt Pro Staff
Response:
78 or 79 Jennings Arrowstar
Question:
>I bought new in about 1979 a Jennings Arrowstar. I’ve been shooting >traditional now since 1983. Where would a guy go to find out the value >of a used Arrowstar? Are they even in demand? Is there such a thing as >a compound bow classifieds? I know there is a stickbow classifieds but >what about compounds? Any help would be appreciated. email me at >Thanks >Lane Puckett
Since compounds have no intrinsic value to begin with… oh, never mind, I’ll just get in trouble again…
Response:
> >I bought new in about 1979 a Jennings Arrowstar. I’ve been shooting >traditional now since 1983. Where would a guy go to find out the value >of a used Arrowstar? Are they even in demand? Is there such a thing as >a compound bow classifieds? I know there is a stickbow classifieds but >what about compounds? Any help would be appreciated. email me at >Thanks >Lane Puckett > Since compounds have no intrinsic value to begin with… oh, never mind, I’ll > just get in trouble again…
Stormtroppers comming George:) Kinda like a car having no intrinsic value over a horse with a broken leg eh 
Response:
> Since compounds have no intrinsic value to begin with… oh, never mind, > I’ll > just get in trouble again…
but its worth it, there is intrinsic value in compounds, their owners are so easy to wind up… danny www http://euler.ntu.ac.uk/dk/dk.html
Response:
inner 10 FITA ARCHER
Question:
Here is my opinion about new rules and inner ten: I have not seen a problem to rank shootters with the inner ten. Sometimes in a Round out of 12 arrows the result could give surprises, but the round does the same!!. The compound bow is a different bow and seems to be more accurate than recurve. Then we must stop the possibility to compare scores between recurves and compound by mading different way of scoring. Because if not this will be like two brothers fighting aginst the other. We must think about a system who take care both of recurve and compound, and bare bow also. May be different target sizes, I do not beleive inside out to be a good thing because all shootting are based on the cutting line principe. May be the inner ten count 11. Because this will allow mistakes no body is perfect. The big ten will allow poor shotters to win: in FITA Field scores will be very close up the 350 or 355 may be few 360. We can imagine a score of 355 with 35 inner 5 beatten by 356 with 20 inner five. Is this fair?? here is my opinion, I beleive we must speak about that. Keep in mind that FITA target archers are tired with all theses last year changes. Please ask the archer before changing the rules!!. Philippe HUMEZ
Response:
Here in GB we have longbow, recurve and compound all in the same tournament, but competing for different prizes. To most people it does not matter as they are not in the same class, and even though shooting the same round they do not try to compare scores. However there are some clubs who are against copound shooters and say alsorts of stupid things like they damage the targets too much and you need too long a safety over shoot for their ground, none of which is true. P.S. I shoot recurve
Response:
Anything new in next year's bows?
Question:
I’m finally (after seven years) going to be buying a new compound bow. Right now I shoot a Hoyt Proforce Eclipse and although it’s treated me pretty good, it’s getting old by today’s standards. I’ll hunt with it this season, but I’ll be looking for a new one before I start at the 3-D range next spring. I was just wondering if there is anything new or special about the upcoming year’s products, or should I just try to get a good deal by puchasing a leftover from this year. Although I don’t have a specific brand preference, this Hoyt has treated me better than I’ve treated it, so I would probably lean towards another one. So, I know I’ve thrown out a pretty open ended question, but does anyone have any good input? Any sincere help will be appreciated. Thanks! Glenn Dixon (remove spamnot from address before replying)
Response:
You should really check out a bow made by CSS (Custom Shooting Systems). They are a reletively small company out of Virginia but they make some of the best bows out there! I don’t have a number for you to call but I can bring it to work with me later. Post another message and I will post more info. What part of the country are you in?
Response:
> You should really check out a bow made by CSS (Custom Shooting Systems). They > are a reletively small company out of Virginia but they make some of the best > bows out there! I don’t have a number for you to call but I can bring it to > work with me later. Post another message and I will post more info. What > part of the country are you in?
I’m up in New Hampshire. The new ‘98 stuff from PSE just arrived at the local shop, but they say that Hoyt is being unusually quiet so far. I’m always open to new suggestions though. If CSS has a catalog or something to look at, I’d be interested in seeing it.
Response:
>I’m up in New Hampshire. The new ‘98 stuff from PSE just arrived at the<BR> >local shop, but they say that Hoyt is being unusually quiet so far. I’m<BR>
Oh, boy, are those guys going to feel silly in about a week. I just attended Hoyt’s 1998 product unveiling and you have never seen so many striking new, incredible designs from one manufacturer in one year in your life. All I have to say is, PSE picked a particularly bad year to Xerox the Hoyt Alphatec and call their imiatation their cutting edge new bow……
Response:
Recurve bows
Question:
Looking for good used or new recurve bows as listed: Martin Scepter Martin Lynx PSE Centra Please email prices… Thank you
Response:
Unless i am mistaken I thought scepter was a compound?
Response:
|> Looking for good used or new recurve bows as listed: |> Martin Scepter |> Martin Lynx |> PSE Centra The Martin Scepter is a compound bow. I know nothing about the Lynx, and the Centra hasn’t been made for a couple of years. What exactly are you looking for? Someone has been selling a bunch of PSE Universals on EBAY. If there is one that suits you needs and desires, that might be a good way of getting a bow. Marty Sasaki
Response:
The Lynx is a compound also. Additionally, I believe it also is no longer cataloged. John Dickmon One man, one bow, several arrows
Response:
>Unless i am mistaken I thought scepter was a compound?
Yes and the Martin LYNX too. :-))) Sven — haben einen Killfile-Eintrag. Entweder wechsele den Account oder den Provider!
Response:
>The Lynx is a compound also. Additionally, I believe it also is no longer >cataloged.
You are right! Sven — haben einen Killfile-Eintrag. Entweder wechsele den Account oder den Provider!
Response:
I noticed that in a similiar previous post that several persons mentioned that the Martin Lynx was a compound, not a recurve. Could you be confusing it with a Marksman Lynx? Check the following page: http://wavespace.waverider.co.uk/~bownet/docs/Instore/lynx.html Prices are sort of included. Of course, YMMV, depending upon the rate of exchange. BTW: Marksman recurves are EXCELLENT bows. Check out their company when you go to the site.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Looking for good used or new recurve bows as listed: > Martin Scepter > Martin Lynx > PSE Centra > Please email prices… > Thank you
Response:
>I noticed that in a similiar previous post that several persons mentioned >that the Martin Lynx was a compound, not a recurve. Could you be confusing >it with a Marksman Lynx? Check the following page: >http://wavespace.waverider.co.uk/~bownet/docs/Instore/lynx.html
Sorry, but sadly, Marksman Bows went into receivership in November 1999. Their Web site has been dismantled…Richard White (Webmaster at BowNet, where the Marksman site resided). – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Prices are sort of included. Of course, YMMV, depending upon the rate of >exchange. >BTW: Marksman recurves are EXCELLENT bows. Check out their company when you >go to the site. > Looking for good used or new recurve bows as listed: > Martin Scepter > Martin Lynx > PSE Centra > Please email prices… > Thank you
Response:
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >|> Looking for good used or new recurve bows as listed: >|> Martin Scepter >|> Martin Lynx >|> PSE Centra >The Martin Scepter is a compound bow. I know nothing about the >Lynx, and the Centra hasn’t been made for a couple of years. >What exactly are you looking for? >Someone has been selling a bunch of PSE Universals on EBAY. If >there is one that suits you needs and desires, that might be a >good way of getting a bow.
Before buying off of ebay check with your local dealer. My local dealer was selling the universal risers with limbs for $180. A really good deal. Alex __O _-<,_ (_)/ (_)
Response:
Skip all these and get a Win & Win..
Response:
There is a version of the lynx in recurve form in the 1986 Martin catalog and don’t ask me why I still have the catalog in my possession
Response:
Both the Centra and Universal risers were known to break. I would recommend either a new model that stays together, or a model that has a good track record.
Response:
says… >Both the Centra and Universal risers were known to break. I would recommend >either a new model that stays together, or a model that has a good track >record.
I recently picked up a universal, cheap. So I’d like to know where the universals break. Hopefully I can keep an eye on that area and stop using it if I see any cracks. — Alex __O _-<,_ (_)/ (_)
Response:
>I recently picked up a universal, cheap. So I’d like to know where the >universals break. Hopefully I can keep an eye on that area and stop using >it if I see any cracks.
Many Universals are prone to cracking on the back of the riser, in the top corner of the clicker extension slot. Some Universals were produced with a radiused corner and may not have a problem. These are very inexpensive and should be OK for a while. You’ll get your money’s worth, IOW. The Universal was built with an extrusion for a compound handle and the metal grains run in the horizontal axis creating this notch sensitivity.
